Lemon bars – The power of egg yolks

Making a custard with eggs can be a hassle. You are looking for that thick, smooth, velvety structure, but if you heat the custard too quickly, or don’t stir enough, the eggs tend to curdle and your whole custard is ruined, forcing you to start over. There’s a way around it, by using corn starch or regular flour to help thicken up your custard. However, it does taste different. Another option is to try out these lemon bars. They do involve making a custard, however, some way or the other it just works out great.

As always, understanding what happens when making these lemon bars will greatly increase you chance for success. In other words, we’ll be discussing science & a recipe, because they can’t go without one another.

By the way, that dark colour around the pie/bars at the top of this photo does not have to be there, but it does give a ton of flavour, thanks to the Maillard reaction!

Why do egg yolks cause thickening?

On this blog we’ve discussed the thickening power of flour and corn starch in great detail before. In those cases large carbohydrates in the flour and starch will absorb water and thickening a mixture. It’s pretty hard to overcook a custard made with these thickening agents, the carbohydrates will keep doing their work.

When making an egg yolk custard though things change slightly. Here it’s not the carbohydrates that cause thickening of the custard, insead, proteins do the job. That’s also the reason these custards are more prone to ending up in a mess. If you overheat the proteins, they will form too tight networks, resulting in a curdling mixture with solid like lumps.

Unfolding proteins

So how to these proteins do there job? When heating the proteins they will slowly unfold. This unfolding allows them to bind water and form a network of proteins. This network prevents any liquid in the custard to flow freely and thus we end up with a thicker gel like consistency, the custard.

lemon bar cake

Managing those egg proteins

The trick to making a good egg yolk custard is to heat the custard slowly while constantly stirring. Stirring is important to keep the temperature the same throughout the entire bowl. If you don’t stir the bottom might heat up a lot more than the top which causes the proteins to curdle at the bottom, while not yet doing their job at the top. The slow heat is important to prevent overcooking the mix. Once you’ve become more comfortable with making the custard there’s no reason why you wouldn’t speed up a little at the start and only slow down more towards the end. Another trick when making custards with larger quantities milk or cream is to scald (pre-heat) these liquids and pour them into the egg yolk slowly, causing more careful thickening.

Lemon bars/pie using egg yolk custard

Now that you know what happens, try to use that knowledge when making the recipe described below. The recipe I used has been slightly adapted from The Kitchn. I mostly reduced the amount of lemon, it was lemony enough as is for sure. Also, I tend to leave out a straining step and just leave the lemon zest inside the pie.

Regarding the use of zest, there’s a good reason for not only using juice, but also zest.

And maybe you’re wondering why you can’t add the butter at the start. Theoretically you could (I accidentally already added some), but the butter is very helpful here. Once the thickening process of a custard has started it will take a while again for it to slow down. Just taking the pan from the heat isn’t enough, it will keep on thickening for a while. By adding some colder butter you will speed up cooling and thus stop and further thickening!

Lemon bars - The power of egg yolks
 
Prep time
Cook time
Total time
 
Author:
Serves: 16 small portions
Ingredients
Crust
  • 60g butter
  • 40g icing sugar
  • 75g flour
  • 40g almond flour (or take 40g of almonds and blitz them into a crumbly powder using a food processor)
  • pinch of salt
Lemon topping
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 100g granulated sugar
  • zest from 1 lemon
  • juice from 2 lemons
  • pinch of salt
  • 60g butter
Instructions
Crust
  1. Mix the butter and icing sugar until the icing sugar doesn't dust up anymore.
  2. Mix in the flour, almond flour and salt, but don't mix for too long. It will be pretty crumbly at this point but once you try forming it in a ball it should stick together.
  3. Take a round 18cm baking tray or a square one of about 15 cm to make proper rectangular bars. Cover the bottom with baking paper and spread the dough around.
  4. Bake in the oven at 180C for about 20 minutes, the crust should start browning slightly.
Topping
  1. While the crust is baking start making the custard which will serve as the topping.
  2. Mix all the ingredients, except for the butter, in a small sauce pan, using a whisk.
  3. Gently heat on a low fire while continuously whisking. The mixture should thicken into a curd. It will still be slightly runny, once you notice it starts thickening, turn down the heat to slow down the process and prevent the eggs from curdling.
  4. Once it's thickened up sufficiently (it will still be quite liquid) take from the heat and mix in the butter until it has melted completely.
  5. Pour over the crust and put back into the oven at 180C and bake for another 10 minutes. It should have not set completely, still move slightly when shaken.

 

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